Re: [Cz-L] Restaurants in Czernowitz

On travels in Czernowitz

In early 1990 I started a photography project titled "Return" to retrace the
route that we (mother, sister & I) traversed as refugees after we left Cz in
1945/46. It was only in preparation for that first trip that I came to find
out that Cz was no longer in Romania. At that time to enter Ukraine one
could engage a travel agent and go on a tour (something that didn't suit the
purpose of my project) or get a letter of invitation from a person or
cultural institution. This I was only able to obtain for my second journey
in 1994 through ArtsLInk, a subsidiary of the Soros Foundation which was one
of the funders of my project - but since I was traveling with my sister and
a young Romanian photographer and both of them were lacking small details in
their documentation, we spent several hours waiting at a bleak border
crossing only to be turned away. Since my project consisted of retracing our
earlier arduous experience as refugees, this was, as they say, par for the
course. I eventually made it through in my 1996 trip, again with a letter
from Soros Foundation, this time with a Romanian art curator as my travel
companion and we spent four days roaming around and seeing what there was to
see. I wrote about it in a piece called "Czernowitz Diary" - relating the
drama of the border crossing and the arrival at 10p.m. with no place to stay
- my travel companion could have checked in any number of hotels - but I an
international traveler could only stay at the Cheremoosh ....with luck and
determination we finally found our way there by midnight and luckily they
had vacancies. At the time there were scant (an under statement) resources
for travelers arriving from abroad - no maps, no postcards, public phones
were free but consistently out of order, we did stop at a sidewalk "cafe"
were we were able to buy a refreshment - but to eat we had to go back to the
Cheremoosh. I thought the breakfasts there were more than adequate and a
delicious vegetarian borscht with smetana that reminded me of my Omama's
days - also there was a surprisingly ample market across the street from the
hotel.

So imagine my surprise when I came back twelve years later for the October
2008 ubilee and found the place transformed - not only bustling with life
and activity but also with many of the resources and amenities of other
modern cities - bancomats, internet cafes, plenty of eating places, a Jewish
museum and the best coffee and strudel outside of Vienna.

best to all
Sylvia

[please post in plain text]

On Mon, Jul 19, 2010 at 11:23 AM, HARDY BREIER <HARDY3_at_bezeqint.net> wrote:

> Thank you Alex,
> For giving us inside story.
> As I understand after Stalin and until Gorbatchov they had 8 presidents or
> so.
> Did'nt each of them make changes to daily life ?
> Didn't the rule become more liberal ?
> Hardy

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Received on 2010-07-19 11:06:38