Czernowitz from 15.6.2005 till 27.6.2005
Dear Czernowitzer,
here is a small resume of my Czernowitz vacation which actually was no =
vacation in the sense because
I walked around the whole day with 12 kilos baggage on my shoulders =
(video camera, photo camera and tripod).
A tip: at the end of my representation there is a small poem of me in =
German.
(not always in rhyme and in German)
Now, I can understand the Czernowitzer that they are sad and think of =
the good times in Czernowitz.
I left Germany with mixed feelings. What will I expect in the Ukraine?
In my recollections were (the) stories of my mother and her brothers and =
sisters.
Everybody was crazy about Czernowitz.
I started my trip on June 13, 2005, from Dusseldorf to Amsterdam (with a =
Fokker 50 - a propeller aircraft).
>From there I flew to Kiev with a Boeing 737 where I stayed for 2 nights.
(Meanwhile it is even possible to fly directly from Dusseldorf to Kiev =
with the Ukraine=B4s Airline.)
Kiev, at least what I saw was very nice, especially all the churches =
with the golden domes.
I lived on a little hill near Andrew Church which is comparable to =
Montmartre in Paris because of the artists and painters who offered =
their work.
And as a man I noticed very nice dressed woman (very womanlike).
I left Kiev June 15th to take a flight to Czernowitz with a small =
airplane of the type Antonow 24, also a propeller aircraft and very =
noisy.=20
The flight lasted 1 hour and 30 minutes.
I landed on the small airport of Czernowitz in the afternoon. This was =
one of the nicest presents to myself since it was my birthday.
While landing I have already had a look on the railway station and the =
white city hall on the ring place.
To get to know the city quite well I had rented a guide from the =
Bukoviner center.
She was a young woman who picked me up at the airport.
She is a teacher at the university of Czernowitz. It is hard to believe =
that she is only 22. (In Germany not conceivable with the long-term =
students.)
We almost met every day and spent it together (mostly from 10 am to 5 =
pm) while she was showing me the city.
During my 12-day-vacation I have run all over in Czernowitz and have =
also had the opportunity to see Czernowitz from above (see next sentence =
<http://dict.leo.org/se?lp=3Dende&p=3D/Mn4k.&search=3Dsentence> ).
I did video recordings from the tower of the city hall and from the gray =
(grey) tower of the university, the former bishop residence, as well as =
from the hill of the Jewish cemetery and from the upper floor of a =
discotheque.
Unfortunately, the trees on the Habsburg Height are so high that it was =
not possible to make video recordings of the railway station from this =
point of view.=20
But I took miraculous video recordings of the theatre from that =
discotheque.
This building of the discotheque was (grown to) next to the Jewish =
national house.
A young Ukraine woman named Oksana made that possible. She spoke with =
the owner of the discotheque.=20
Oksana is 20 years old, speaks German and English fluently, knows a lot =
about Czernowitz=B4 history including the old street names and showed me =
distinctive motives to take photos for a great statement. She recognized =
signs on
houses, or the way and on manhole cover which remember on the old =
Austrian and Romanian times.
For Example: the company inscription "Leon Schrenzel" - the company was =
located on "Franzengasse", established 1887.
Everybody who walks along with so called "open eyes" is able to see such =
signs of the history.
At Oksana's grandparent's home - nice green large house on "Schulgasse" =
I could make video of an old oven from the beginning of the 20th =
century. Such oven is very rarely nowadays. Today it is heaten with =
gasoline (burnable gas).
What I like about the Ukrainian students is the fact that they are =
involved in projects besides their regular studies such as playing =
theatre or writing stories in German or organizing photo exhibitions. It =
seems they really want to learn much.
Fortunately, the projects are sponsored by the "Bosch-Stiftung" (a =
German foundation). The organization in that foundation is done by two =
German women - Mrs. Katharina Hartmann and Mrs. Stefanie Stegmann.
I can recommend Oksana as a guide. Ask me for contact.
I have closed her in my heart if one may say this so.
This building of the discotheque was (grown to) next to the Jewish =
national house.
I have also filmed in the Jewish National House - including the Stars of =
David
in the stairway =
<http://dict.leo.org/se?lp=3Dende&p=3D/Mn4k.&search=3Dstairway> =
(stairwell) which were sawed off by the Russians and were restored =
later on.=20
I also filmed a topical small synagogue from the outside near the =
streets "Arbeitergasse " and "Wolangasse".
My mother (was born 1916) and her brothers and sisters often spoke about =
the street "Arbeitergasse" because they had a house there, but the =
street name was
at the time already changed in a other name (more in addition later on) =
.
I had to pay for taking recordings of the theater=B4s inside. But at =
least I received a ticket for a premi=E8re on my last holiday day (leave =
<http://dict.leo.org/se?lp=3Dende&p=3D/Mn4k.&search=3Dleave> day =
<http://dict.leo.org/se?lp=3Dende&p=3D/Mn4k.&search=3Dday> ).
This was absolutely a successful event.
In front of the theatre is the memorial of the Ukrainian writer Olga =
Kobilanska.
The former memorial of Schiller does not exist anymore. Only the street =
on the left side of the theatre is called "Schillerstr", but in =
Ukrainian.
The building on its end belongs to a company. In the earlier times it =
used to be the Jewish theatre.
=20
=20
I only guided myself along the old street names of Czernowitz which my =
guide (Ljudmila) and Oksana (the young student) also knew.
Some streets have received their old names back, like Schulgasse also =
Tuerkengasse has its old name back, too, but only in Ukrainian.
As I said before I was and I am fascinated by this town and the very =
nice dressed woman.
It is hard to believe that on the one side the people are very poor and
on the other side they have big cars (mostly Mercedes, BMW, Audi and VW)
and are dressed fashionable. Certainly one also sees old Russian cars.
And hard to believe that even students drive cars like Mercedes SLK or
Ferrarie. They do it in Czernowitz.
When sitting in the caf=E9 "Vienna" in "Herrengasse" or in the pizza =
restaurant "Efes" in "Liliengasse" at night I thought I was sitting in =
the TV show "the rich and the beauties" .
The guests mostly are younger people aged 20 to 35.
=20
I must still mention one thing: I had a look at the three houses of my =
grandparents and had taken photos of them. They are located in in =
"Pfarrer-Kunz Gasse", in "Arbeitergasse" and in "Dr. Roth Gasse".
I was invited to get into the house on "Dr. Roth Gasse". Surprisingly I =
was asked if my last name was "Wimmer" - my grandparents=B4 last name. =
Perhaps the man remembered my aunt's visit in 1985 (also born as a =
"Wimmer").
The man showed me his piano which once belonged to my grandmother and =
which my mother had even played on. I was very affected by this. At =
the entrance of the house is a label which says that there had been =
living a Russian hero in 1940. Anyway, I showed the man photos of my =
grandparents. I gave him one of their wedding and he was very pleased =
and put it on the piano right away.
After this, I can really say that I have fallen in love with Czernowitz. =
I am sure it was not my last visit. I will come back again.
Now, I do know the city so well that even I could become a local guide.
I also visited the Jewish and the Christian cemeteries. The Jewish one =
has obviously not being cared for a very a long time.
I spent 3 hours there because I was looking for a special gravestone.
The problem was that the gravestones were hardly seen because of the =
weed.
Only completely big were to be seen.
I took many photos of the bigger ones. (just to inform you: I will put =
my 1260 photos on my homepage - I will give you the web-address another =
time).
The Christian cemetery does not look much better. It took me 1.5 hours =
to find my grandfather's crypt.
I also visited Sadagora with its cemetery and the ruins of rabbi =
Friedmann=B4s house. On the cemetery, the weed was not so high. I have =
plenty of photos and recordings from there, too.
On 2 days I spent several hours in the town's archives which is housed =
in the former Heart-Jesus Church.
In the uppermost floor is a room for the public to read old newspaper or =
old records of Czernowitz.
I read articles from the years 1928 and 1934 of the "Czernowitzer =
Deutschen Tagespost" (a newspaper).
My father was a freelance for this newspaper from 1934 on. I do own some =
of his documents, such as his employee's identity card, his pilot=B4s =
license and his diploma.
I have also had a look at the directories of 1895 and 1914. In the last =
I also found the entry of my grandfather, Emil Wimmer, he was an =
official, and I found a comment to the street "Arbeitergasse".
In the directory of 1914 it is said that the street Arbeitergasse which =
is a cross-road of the street "T=F6pfergasse" is being called =
"Zalozieckigasse" since 1914.
I am surprised that people who were born 10 years later still call the =
street Arbeitergasse.
Furthermore I found many articles which were very interesting, also =
advertisement =
<http://dict.leo.org/se?lp=3Dende&p=3D/Mn4k.&search=3Dadvertisement> of =
the drugstore (chemist's) " Schmidt and Fontin " - ("to the black =
dog") , where my mother worked.
Before 1940 that drugstore existed of the central shop and two other =
stores in
Czernowitz and one store in Kimpolung (a little town nearly).
The store which was on "Enzenberg Hauptstr." is a pharmacy today.
Some articles and advertisements I read made me laugh. I made notes of =
the tram prices and about the seats for the spectators from theatre. =
Besides the regular seats there existed seats for students without =
seats. They had to stand during the show.
In 1928, the room was rebuilt so that they could for students sit down =
for a price of 60 Heller.
It is interesting to know that all ticket prices include tax for the =
tickets and for the pension fund.
Back to the tram prices: They were devided into 3 zones of which each =
cost 15 Heller in the firstclass and 12 Heller in the secondclass.
1st zone started from river Pruth up to the "Ringplatz"
2 st zone started from "Ringplatz" up to the "Volksgarten"
3 st zone started from "Eugengasse till to the "Springbrunnenplatz".
Here follow some hints to the articles respectively advertisements :
A. Kluczenko, who was a chemist and pharmacist from Czernowitz had the =
first studio for photographs in the Bukovina. ( I have got a picture =
from 1882)
=
-----------------------
August Czerniawski (1895) was the owner of the first American Cleaning =
Company which was established in 1884.
=
-------------------------
In 1928, Czernowitz had 3 cinemas: 1. " CENTRAL " in the music's =
union
2. " INTIM =
" in "Landhausgasse"
3. " =
PALATULUI " at "Ringplatz"
For your remember :
On June 24, 1928 , the film " der geheimnisvolle Ritter" (secret =
knight) was played in cinema "PALATULUI" .
On June, 26, 1928 , the film " das R=E4tsel einer Nacht" (Mysterie any =
night)
Was shown in the cinema "INTIM" with the moviestar Harry Piel.
=
--------------------------
The advertisement from July 3 rd , 1928 says that everybody was allowed =
to have a Victoria - Bike payed in 12 monthly rates.
=
-------------------------
Since Czernowitz already had 3 cinemas it is unbelieveable that the =
Russians rebuilt the Jewish Temple to a further cinema !
Luckily, I met the last German man living in Czernowitz twice. Mr. =
Schlamp is 90 years old and very active. We talked for about four hours =
the first time.
He is a big fan of the singer Joseph Schmidt. He has got almost all his =
songs on CD and even sings the songs to tourists in the Caf=E9 "Vienna". =
=20
1940 he had no luck. He did not want to leave Czernowitz because he was =
a communist.
But the Russians (his friends) captivated him for 19 years to Siberia. =
He came back again to Czernowitz in 1959 .
Of course, I took photos of him and even filmed him singing.=20
Mr. Schlamp lives at "Austriaplatz" which is called "Soborna" place =
today.
The statue of the "Austria" was taken away. Recently, its head was found =
and is now in restoration.
Unfortunately =
<http://dict.leo.org/se?lp=3Dende&p=3D/Mn4k.&search=3Dunfortunately> I =
could not visit the Jewish author Mr. Burg because he was not feeling =
healthy.
Finally, I must say that the town impressed me much. In the street =
called "Herrengasse" there were many restorations being done and 4 new =
shops opened while I was there.
All the people go there for a stroll and stop for a coffee at the =
"Vienna" - it offers many different kinds of coffee.
The owner of the caf=E9 speaks German, too bad the waiter do not.
The Polish and the German House are located on the street "Herrengasse" =
, too. Every Thursday in the evening, films are showed in German in the =
German House.
Today, in the Polish house is also a music school.
All the people I met were very nice and friendly. With my guide =
(Ljudmila) I was able to see the most important rooms of the university =
of Czernowitz, including the orthodox church. I could also go up the =
tower of the city hall because I was announced by the city =
administration of Klagenfurt - Klagenfurt is partner-city of Czernowitz. =
For me, the town renders a nice impression. Certainly the cosiness of =
former days will come back, but the Austrian spirit will never return =
anymore.
The hospital across the "Volksgarten" definitely needs an entire =
restoration.
Nice to see is that many houses are restored with the old style.
Today, the hotel "black eagle" is a travel agency and a bank. The art =
museum is located at the former saving bank. Well, I also made video =
records of all.
In the building of the former stock exchange is a bank. The post-office =
is still on its place.
On "Rudolfsplatz" remained the "Bristol" but it is no longer a hotel. It =
is a residential =
<http://dict.leo.org/se?lp=3Dende&p=3D/Mn4k.&search=3Dresidential> =
accommodation =
<http://dict.leo.org/se?lp=3Dende&p=3D/Mn4k.&search=3Daccommodation> =
for students.
As I mentioned the Jewish temple on "Tempelgasse" was changed in a =
cinema.
Only a small commemoration table reminds of singer Joseph Schmidt.=20
The railway station of Czernowitz is a nice small railway station and =
is in a good condition.
I was surprised by the number of cash dispensers - more than in some =
German cities.
Except for one shop at "Ringplatz" you cannot pay with credit cards.
Well, I have felt like a descendant of Czernowitz=B4 people. I felt like =
being at home there.
I can say, Czernowitz has got a fan more!!
Czernowitzer I can understand you well.
I will send a small preview of my photos to Jerome Schatten.
He would consider them for posting on the group web site !
I will offer the rest of the photos on my homepage shortly.
I will let you know when I finished my DVD about Czernowitz .
If anybody still has a question feel free to ask.
I must repeat !!
If anybody needs a guide to get around in Czernowitz, I can recommend =
Oksana, she is very friendly, it was also born in Czernowitz and she =
takes for the guidance not so much money like other guides.
Just let me know it.
=20
=20
Here my small poem to Czernowitz : ( in German)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
------------------------
C z e r n o w i t z
=20
Du holde Stadt im Buchenland,
Du warst mir nur aus Erz=E4hlungen bekannt,
Ich wollte Dich sehen und hab's geschafft.
Es war f=FCr mich wie eine Wende,
65 Jahre nach der Umsiedlung und 60 Jahre nach Kriegsende.
--
Ich kam zu Dir mit gemischten Gef=FChlen, die Eltern sie schw=E4rmten,
von der Stadt, ihren Geist und den Menschen.
Doch diese Zeit ist lange her, sie kannten Dich gut, aber sp=E4ter =
nicht mehr. =20
Die Zeit blieb nicht stehen, die Stadt und ihr Geist gingen unter, die =
Zeit danach,
ihr habt es nicht gesehen, war ein Stillstand, doch wie ein Wunder, ging =
auch
diese Zeit der Unterdr=FCckung unter.
--
Heute erhebt sich die Stadt, der einstige Geist, er wird es nicht =
schaffen,
aber wir wollen helfen, dich Czernowitz wieder so zu sehen, wie unsere=20
Vorfahren dich kannten.
Ich fand Menschen, die lieb ich gewonnen, und habe versprochen
auf jeden Fall immer wieder zu kommen.
Als ich dich schon vom Flieger aus sah, klopfte mein Herz und ich
konnte dann sehen, den Bahnhof zuerst und den Ringplatz - fast =
daneben.
Diesen Anblick habe ich aufgenommen und werd' ihn behalten bis
hin zu meinen Tagen, den alten.=20
--
Die Stadt meiner Eltern ist auch jetzt mein, ich hab' mich verliebt, sie =
hat mich
verzaubert,
hier bin ich jetzt auch daheim.
--
(Reinhold Czarny 7.7.2005)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
------------------------
I greet all Bukoviner ( Czernowitzer )
Reinhold Czarny
Mit freundlichen Gr=FC=DFen
Reinhold Czarny
Services for Business IT Ruhr GmbH
Systemberater
Bruchstra=DFe 5, 45883 Gelsenkirchen, Germany
Reinhold Czarny
Tel.: +49 209 9456-7676
Fax: +49 209 9456-3437
Reinhold.Czarny_at_sbi-ruhr.de
http://www.sbi-ruhr.de <http://www.rag-informatik.de/>
Received on 2005-07-28 08:39:17
This archive was generated by hypermail 2.2.0 : 2006-01-08 17:00:17 PST